玛莎葡萄园岛的新鲜事：从汉堡到精品店

【中美创新时报2024 年 7 月 28 日编译讯】（记者温友平编译）对于我们这些住在新英格兰的人来说，一天的“海岛度假”可以很随性。而且不会太奢侈。以下是本季的一些新活动（但不是全部），让您可以体验巅峰葡萄园的体验。对此，《波士顿环球报》记者黛安·贝尔（Diane Bair）和帕梅拉·赖特（Pamela Wright）作了下述报道。

“想去葡萄园吗？”最近一个星期天早上，我们最喜欢的旅行伙伴问道。当然可以。要么去葡萄园，要么除掉花园里的杂草——这是一个简单的选择。马唐草，你会活到另一天！对于我们这些住在新英格兰的人来说，一天的“海岛度假”可以如此自发。而且不会太奢侈。

我们搭乘 Steamship Authority 的传统渡轮前往玛莎葡萄园岛（从伍兹霍尔到橡树崖或葡萄园港需 45 分钟；www.steamshipauthority.com，单程 10 美元）。除非您开车，否则无需预订渡轮。其他渡轮从海恩尼斯、法尔茅斯港、罗德岛州北金斯敦和新贝德福德出发。

接下来的几个小时，我们乘坐 VTA（www.vineyardtransit.com）巴士愉快地游览了整个岛屿——其中 75% 是纯电动汽车。5 美元的巴士通票让您可以全天无限次乘坐。我们充分利用了这一点，从橡树崖到埃德加敦再到葡萄园港，然后返回橡树崖，沿途游览了我们最喜欢的景点。哦，我们还发现了一些新（或改造）的东西。以下是本季的一些新事物（但不是全部），让您体验巅峰葡萄园的魅力。

在橡树崖……

“您忘记了这里的建筑有多美，”我们的同伴保罗说，当时我们参观了色彩缤纷的维多利亚哥特式姜饼小屋，这些小屋构成了占地 34 英亩的玛莎葡萄园露营协会。星期天早上经过 Tabernacle 时，我们听到歌声高唱，这是开始一天的完美方式。

但我们还有很多东西要看，比如以前的 Flavors MV，现在的 11 Circuit（www.elevencircuit.com），这是厨师 Ralston Francis 和妻子 Mavis 买下这个地方后提出的新餐饮和娱乐概念。厨师 Francis 和他的团队翻新了门廊和酒吧，在墙上添加了当地艺术家创作的酷炫涂鸦，目前（7 月到劳动节）每周七天开放，有 DJ 和带窗帘的贵宾室。这家热闹、诱人的餐厅在 Circuit Avenue 沿线设有户外座位，供应早餐、午餐和晚餐（包括深夜菜单），反映了厨师的牙买加血统：“这是带有一丝加勒比风味的美国灵魂食物，”他说。牙买加烤鸡和用加勒比香料调味的新鲜整条鲷鱼是菜单上的亮点。

岛上的酒吧营业至午夜，深夜派对人群需要补充能量。OB 最受欢迎的 Midnight Taco 已搬到街对面以前由 Juice by the Sea 占据的空间。他们现在在扩建的 50 个座位的餐厅中提供室内和室外座位以及饮料（更不用说，像酸橙和大蒜腌虾这样的美味玉米卷饼了）。与此同时，Midnight Mediterranean (@midnightmediterranean) 已在 Midnight Taco 以前的空间开业。菜单包括火烤和叉烤陀螺仪和陀螺仪碗，哈里萨鸡肉陀螺仪起价为 16 美元。菜单上还有沙拉、生鱼片和烤牛肉。这里只提供外卖；店主乔丹·华莱士对火烤羊肉特别自豪。

同样在美食界，Notalot Farm Shop (https://notalotfarmshop.com) 即将开业，这是一家小型季节性农场摊位，出售预制食品和当地产品。

新精品店如橡树崖上的大丽花一样盛开。Back Door Donuts 对面的 CurioMV (https://curiomv.com) 是一家女性开的商店，专营“沿海奇珍异宝”，包括彩绘牡蛎壳（适合戴戒指）、葡萄园制作的盐和蜂蜜，以及大量海洋主题物品。附近的 42 Circuit Avenue 街区，Jubilee MV (https://jubileemv.myshopify.com) 接管了旧的 Tangerine MV 空间。这是这家店的第一个完整的夏季营业季（去年八月开业）。这家店由 Kahina Van Dyke 经营，店内出售的 MV 上其他地方找不到的商品包括 LaSonja Polk Designs 设计的华丽、独一无二的和服。对于复古服装爱好者来说，Dockside Marketplace 有一家新的“高档转售”店，Boutique on the Buy Way（www.boutiqueonthebuyway.com）。

沿着埃德加敦路走下去……

当我们得知 Alchemy 的主厨兼老板 Christopher Stam 今年夏天将在老 R & B’s Eatery 空间开一家汉堡店时，我们不得不去尝试一下。Wicked Burger (www.wickedburgermv.com) 就像它的名字所暗示的那样——提供超棒的 smashburgers、素食汉堡、薯条、洋葱圈、凉拌卷心菜和奶昔。这家店很简单——几张桌子、几盆植物、一个食品柜台——但非常适合快餐或外卖。smashburger 是双份的，味道很足，而细薯条调味得很好（一份就足够分享了）。素食汉堡是我们吃过的最好的汉堡之一。 Wicked 的版本将蘑菇和海带磨成汉堡般的稠度，边缘酥脆，在柔软的汉堡面包上撒上常见的美国奶酪和“超棒的酱汁”。

Lilikoi Café 已经关闭，但在 Edgartown-Vineyard Haven Road 的原址上开了一家咖啡/糕点店：Cozy Corner Café (https://cozycornermv.com)。我们无法保证食物的质量（我们吃饱了汉堡），但这个地方看起来时尚而诱人，摆满了看起来美味的零食和全套咖啡菜单。他们还提供吐司、帕尼尼三明治、早餐三明治、巴西莓碗、冰沙和奶昔。

沿着港口往下走，离 Faraway Martha’s Vineyard（前身为 Kelley House – 去年重新开业）不远，在旧的 Bryn Walker 空间中寻找 Erica Wilson 商店 (www.ericawilson.com)。Erica Wilson 于 2011 年去世，被《纽约时报》称为“针线活界的 Julia Child”；她在楠塔基特的商店和这个新的 MV 分店由女儿 Vanessa Diserio 经营。Erica Wilson 专营轻松现代的服装（包括可爱的睡衣）和针线活、针线活用品和课程。

你知道 FatFace 在埃德加敦有一个分店吗？我们也不知道，这也许可以解释为什么它消失了。取而代之的是 Dune（https://dunemv.com），由共同所有者（也是夫妻）Annette Luna 和 Jamie Kiersted 经营，也是本季的新店。这家商店采用海军蓝粉刷，有一种纽约与葡萄园的结合感。想想夏季套装、沙滩装、细针织马球衫——他度假时需要的一切，都能让他看起来轻松酷炫（但又不失时尚）。

今年夏天，在老 Rochelle’s Boutique 空间的主街上，还有一家 Free People 快闪店。快速闪现，露出了冰糕色调的比基尼和波西米亚风格的连衣裙。

葡萄园港有什么新鲜事……

如果你想要一个远离游客拥挤的酷炫之地，主街上的 La Strada 是不错的选择，这是一家由 Salvatore della Torre 和 Dusan Veselinovic 经营的咖啡馆/熟食店/酒吧，他们也是 Salvatore’s Ristorante 的老板。楼下阴凉阴暗，有几张桌子，您可以在那里点葡萄酒、奶酪和甜点（听起来很完美）。楼上是一家小店，出售意大利特色食品杂货和三明治、帕尼尼三明治和外带熟食。

在 Mansion House 旁边，9 Craft Kitchen & Bar (www.9craftkitchen.com) 最近开业。老板是 19 Raw Oyster Bar 的 Joe 和 Emily Monteiroso；他们在这里提供精心挑选的小盘菜（贻贝意大利面？有的，请！）、意大利面和意大利调味饭，以及包括味噌鳕鱼和香菜腌制金枪鱼在内的主菜。9 月份加入当地餐饮界的餐厅：Quitsa Kitchen，位于前 Life at Humphrey’s 的位置。这家餐厅由厨师 Theresa Manning 掌舵，她是 Cliffhangers Aquinnah 和 Quitsa Cuisine Catering 的共同所有者。

如果吃完这些美食还不能阻止你购买比基尼，那就去主街上两家巴西人开设的新服装精品店 Gata Fields (@gata_fields_) 和 Lapie (@uselapie) 吧。色彩鲜艳的紧身泳衣和紧身连衣裙争相吸引你的注意，如果这是你的区域，那就去吧，宝贝。

还有更多，但我们没有空间了。有关详情和最新开业更新，请查看网站和社交媒体信息。有关该岛的更多信息，包括夏季活动，请访问 www.mvy.com。

题图：橡树崖渡轮码头附近一条色彩斑斓的小巷。难怪外地人对这座岛屿赞叹不已。DIANE BAIR

附原英文报道：

What’s new on Martha’s Vineyard: From burgers to boutiques

By Diane Bair and Pamela Wright Globe Correspondent,Updated July 26, 2024 

A colorful alleyway in Oak Bluffs, near the ferry dock. No wonder people from out of town are wowed by this island.DIANE BAIR

“Want to go to the Vineyard?” asked our favorite travel buddy on a recent Sunday morning. Heck, yeah. It was either that or weed the garden — an easy call. Crabgrass, you will live to see another day! For those of us who live in New England, an “island vacation” just for the day can be that spontaneous. And not wildly splurge-y.

We hopped on the Steamship Authority’s traditional ferry to Martha’s Vineyard (45 minutes from Woods Hole to Oak Bluffs or Vineyard Haven; www.steamshipauthority.com, $10 each way). Unless you are bringing a car, you don’t need a ferry reservation. Other ferries depart from Hyannis, Falmouth Harbor, North Kingston, R.I., and New Bedford.

We spent the next few hours happily knocking around the island via the VTA (www.vineyardtransit.com) buses — 75 percent of which are all-electric vehicles. A $5 bus pass gets you unlimited rides for the day. We took advantage of that, going from Oak Bluffs to Edgartown to Vineyard Haven, and then back to Oak Bluffs, hitting our favorite spots along the way. Oh, and we found some new (or transformed) stuff, too. Here’s a peek at some (but not all) of what’s new this season, so you can have a Peak Vineyard Experience.

In Oak Bluffs . . .

“You forget how beautiful the architecture is here,” our companion Paul said, as we took in the colorful Victorian Gothic gingerbread cottages that make up the 34-acre Martha’s Vineyard Camp Meeting Association. Passing by the Tabernacle on Sunday morning, we heard voices raised in song, a perfect way to begin the day.

But we had things to see, like the former Flavors MV, now 11 Circuit (www.elevencircuit.com ), a new dining and entertainment concept by chef Ralston Francis, who bought the place with his wife Mavis. Chef Francis and crew renovated the porch and bar, added cool graffiti by local artists to the walls, and are currently (July through Labor Day) open seven nights a week with DJs and curtained VIP rooms. This lively, inviting joint, with outdoor seating along Circuit Avenue, serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner (including a late-night menu) that reflects the chef’s Jamaican heritage: “It’s American soul food with a hint of the Caribbean,” he says. Jerk chicken and fresh whole snapper with Caribbean spice are among the menu highlights.

With bars open until midnight on the island, the late-night party crowd needs sustenance. OB favorite Midnight Taco has moved across the street to the space formerly occupied by Juice by the Sea. They now offer indoor and outdoor seating and drinks (not to mention, killer tacos like lime & garlic-marinated shrimp) in an expanded, 50-seat home. Midnight Mediterranean (@midnightmediterranean), meanwhile, has opened in Midnight Taco’s former space. The menu features a medley of fire-roasted and spit-roasted gyros and gyro bowls, with prices starting at $16 for the Harissa Chicken Gyro. Salads, crudo, and beef arayes round out the menu. It’s takeout only; owner Jordan Wallace is especially proud of the fire-roasted lamb.

Also on the food scene, Notalot Farm Shop (https://notalotfarmshop.com ), a small seasonal farm stand selling pre-made foods and local products, will be open by the time you read this.

New boutiques are blossoming like dahlias in Oak Bluffs. CurioMV (https://curiomv.com ), across from Back Door Donuts, is a woman-owned shop specializing in “coastal curiosities’ including painted oyster shells (good for holding rings), Vineyard-made salt and honey, and ocean-themed items aplenty. Nearby, along the 42 Circuit Avenue block, Jubilee MV (https://jubileemv.myshopify.com ) has taken over the old Tangerine MV space. This is the shop’s first full summer season (they opened last August.) Among the not-found-elsewhere-on-MV items in this shop, owned by Kahina Van Dyke, are gorgeous, one-of-a-kind kimonos by LaSonja Polk Designs. For lovers of vintage clothing, there’s a new “upscale resale” shop in Dockside Marketplace, Boutique on the Buy Way (www.boutiqueonthebuyway.com).

Down Edgartown way . . .

When we learned that Christopher Stam, chef/owner of Alchemy, was opening a burger joint this summer in the old R & B’s Eatery space, we had to try it. Wicked Burger (www.wickedburgermv.com) is just as the name implies — wicked good smashburgers, veggie burgers, fries, onion rings, slaw, and milkshakes. The spot is pretty basic — a few tables, a couple of plants, a food counter — but it’s great for a quick meal, or takeout. The smashburger, served as a double, has plenty of flavor, while the skinny fries are well-seasoned (and one order is plenty for sharing.) The veggie burger is one of the best we’ve had. Wicked’s version features mushrooms and kelp ground to a burger-like consistency, nicely crispy on the edges, and topped with the usual suspects, American cheese, and “wicked good sauce” on a soft burger bun.

Lilikoi Café is gone, but a coffee/pastry shop has opened in its place on Edgartown-Vineyard Haven Road: Cozy Corner Café (https://cozycornermv.com.) We can’t vouch for the food (we were full of smashburger) but the space looks sleek and inviting, with a case of luscious-looking treats and a full coffee menu. They also serve toasts, paninis, breakfast sandwiches, acai bowls, smoothies, and shakes.

Down by the harbor, not far from Faraway Martha’s Vineyard (formerly the Kelley House — reopened last year), look for the Erica Wilson shop (www.ericawilson.com ), in the old Bryn Walker space. Erica Wilson, who passed away in 2011, was called “the Julia Child of needlework” by the New York Times; her shop on Nantucket, and this new MV outpost, are operated by daughter Vanessa Diserio. Erica Wilson specializes in breezy contemporary clothing (including adorable pjs) and needlework, needlework supplies and classes.

Did you know there was an outpost of FatFace in Edgartown? Neither did we, which may explain why it’s gone. In its place, and new this season, is Dune (https://dunemv.com ), by co-owners (and husband and wife) Annette Luna and Jamie Kiersted. The shop, painted in nautical navy, has an NYC-meets-Vineyard vibe. Think summer suits, beach attire, fine-knit polos — everything he needs to look effortlessly cool (but smaht) on vacay.

There’s also a Free People pop-up on Main Street this summer in the old Rochelle’s Boutique space. A quick pop-in revealed bikinis in sherbet hues and boho-style dresses.

What’s new in Vineyard Haven . . .

If you’re seeking a cool (literally) escape from the tourist throng, there’s La Strada on Main Street, a café/deli/wine bar by Salvatore della Torre and Dusan Veselinovic, the proprietors of Salvatore’s Ristorante. There are a few tables in the cool, dark downstairs, where you can order wine, cheese, and dessert (sounds pretty perfect.) Upstairs is a small shop selling Italian specialty groceries and sandwiches, paninis, and charcuterie to go.

Alongside the Mansion House, 9 Craft Kitchen & Bar (www.9craftkitchen.com ) recently opened its doors. The owners are Joe and Emily Monteiroso of 19 Raw Oyster Bar; here they offer a menu of well-curated small plates (mussels puttanesca? Yes please!), pasta and risotto, and entrées including miso cod and cilantro-cured tuna. Joining the local dining scene in September: Quitsa Kitchen, in the former Life at Humphrey’s location. This one is helmed by chef Theresa Manning, co-owner of Cliffhangers Aquinnah and Quitsa Cuisine Catering.

If eating all of this good food doesn’t deter you from bikini shopping, stop into the two new Brazilian-owned clothing boutiques, Gata Fields (@gata_fields_) and Lapie (@uselapie) on Main Street. Colorful, skimpy swimsuits and slinky dresses vie for your attention, and if that’s your zone, own it, baby.

There’s more, but we’re out of space. For details and the latest opening updates, check websites and social media feeds. For more information about the island, including summer events, visit www.mvy.com.